Friday, December 30, 2011

How to Photograph Rodeo and Horse Shows Outdoors in Poor Lighting Conditions

With Summer comes long, hot summer evening, just perfect for trying to learn a new type of photography and learning new skills.For this article I traveled to the 2011 Ohio High School Rodeo Finals in Seymour, Ohio.

For most events like this you do not really need any press credentials. Just pay your fee and belly up to the rail with everyone else. You will most likely be welcomed.

This even ran for three days with morning and evening performances.  I went to the Saturday evening even to show you how we would cover an event like this in rapidly changing lighting. The evening started in bright sunlight, after a summer thunder storm had cleared.

The first photo was the newly crowned Ohio High School Rodeo Queen.  I like to shoot even in the brightest light with my lens wide open to blur the background and make my subject really pop. This is a decent photo with a very messy background, if it were not so far out of focus. This was taken with a Nikon D700 and Nikon 300mm f2.8 lens, ISO 200, 1/3200 at f2.8.

First event up was Breakaway Roping. Breakaway roping is a variation of calf roping where a calf is roped, but not thrown and tied. It is a rodeo event that features a calf and one mounted rider. The calves are moved one at a time through narrow runs leading to a chute with spring-loaded doors. The horse and rider wait in a box next to the chute that has a spring-loaded rope, known as the barrier, stretched in front. A light rope is fastened from the chute to the calf's neck, releasing once the calf is well away from the chute and releasing the barrier, which is used to ensure that the calf gets a head start. 


Once the barrier has released, the horse runs out of the box while the roper attempts to throw a lasso around the neck of the calf. Once the rope is around the calf's neck, the roper signals the horse to stop suddenly. The rope is tied to the saddle horn with a string. When the calf hits the end of the rope, the rope is pulled tight and the string breaks. The breaking of the string marks the end of the run. The rope usually has a small bright flag at the end that makes the moment the rope breaks more easily seen by the timer. The fastest run wins.

The sun had gone away when these were taken with a Nikon D700 and Nikon 300mm f2.8 lens, ISO 800 to 1600 depending on the light, 1/3200 at f2.8. 

For this and most rodeo events and horse shows I want to use a pretty long lens, usually a 300mm or a 70-200mm zoom.  I want to get back away from the action, and try to find an advantage point where the horse will be coming right at me, like the bottom photos.

Next up was Steer Wrestling:
Steer wrestling, also known as bulldogging, is a rodeo event in which a horse-mounted rider chases a steer, drops from the horse to the steer, then wrestles the steer to the ground by twisting its horns.

The event features a steer and two mounted cowboys, along with a number of supporting characters. The steers are moved through narrow pathways leading to a chute with spring loaded doors. A barrier rope is fastened around the steer's neck which is used to ensure that the steer gets a head start. The rope length is determined by arena length. On one side of the chute is the hazer, whose job is to ride parallel with the steer once it begins running and ensure it runs in a straight line, on the other side of the chute the steer wrestler or bulldogger waits behind a taut rope fastened with an easily broken string which is fastened to the rope on the steer. When the steer wrestler is ready he calls for the steer by nodding his head and the chute man trips a lever opening the doors. The suddenly freed steer breaks out running, shadowed by the hazer. When the steer reaches the end of his rope, it pops off and simultaneously releases the barrier for the steer wrestler. The steer wrestler attempts to catch up to the running steer, lean over the side of the horse which is running flat out and grab the horns of the running steer. The steer wrestler then is pulled off his horse by the slowing steer and plants his heels into the dirt further slowing the steer and himself. He then takes one hand off the horns, reaches down and grabs the nose of the steer pulling the steer off balance and ultimately throwing the steer to the ground. Once all four legs are off the ground, an official waves a flag marking the official end and a time is taken. The steer is released and trots off.


Sun was coming and going when these were taken with a Nikon D700 and Nikon 300mm f2.8 lens, ISO 800 to 1600 depending on the light, 1/3200 at f2.8. 

Barrel Racing was next:
In Barrel Racing the purpose is to make a run as fast as possible. The times are measured either by an Electric eye, a device using a laser system to record times, or by a judge who drops a flag to let the timer know when to hit the timer stop. Judges and timers are more commonly seen in local and non-professional events. The timer begins when horse and rider cross the start line, and ends when the barrel pattern has been successfully executed and horse and rider cross the finish line. The rider's time depends on several factors, most commonly the horse's physical and mental condition, the rider's horsemanship abilities, and the type of ground or footing (the quality, depth, content, etc. of the sand or dirt in the arena). This pattern is often referred to as a "Cloverleaf" The pattern may also begin with the left barrel first. Beginning a barrel race, the horse and rider will enter the arena at top speed, through the center entrance (or alley if in a rodeo arena). Once in the arena, the electronic timer beam is crossed by the horse and rider. The timer keeps running until the beam is crossed again at the end of the run. Modern barrel-racing horses need to not only be fast; but strong, agile and intelligent as well. The strength and agility are needed to maneuver the course in as little distance as possible. A horse that is able to "hug the barrels" as well as maneuver the course quickly and accurately follow commands, will be a horse with consistently low times.



Next comes Calf Roping:
Calf roping, also known as tie-down roping, is a rodeo event that features a calf and a rider mounted on a horse. The goal of this timed event is for the rider to catch the calf by throwing a loop of rope from a lariat around its neck, dismount from the horse, run to the calf, and restrain it by tying three legs together, in as short a time as possible. 


The calves are lined up in a row and moved through narrow runways leading to a chute with spring-loaded doors. When a calf enters the chute, a door is closed behind it and a lightweight 28-foot (8.5 m) rope, attached to a trip lever, is fastened around the calf's neck. The lever holds a taut cord or "barrier" that runs across a large pen or "box" at one side of the calf chute, where the horse and rider wait. The barrier is used to ensure that the calf gets a head start. When the roper is ready, he (or, in some roping events, she) calls for the calf, and the chute operator pulls a lever opening the chute doors and releasing the calf. The calf runs out in a straight line. When the calf reaches the end of the rope, that trips the lever, the rope falls off the calf, and the barrier for the horse is released, starting the clock and allowing horse and rider to chase the calf. Calf Roping event at the Calgary Stampede Timing is critical. From a standstill, a rider will put his horse into a gallop from the box shortly after the calf leaves the chute, so that the horse saves valuable seconds by being at near-full speed the moment the barrier releases. However, if the rider mistimes his cue to the horse and the horse breaks the barrier before it releases, a 10-second penalty will be added to his time. 


This is sometimes referred to as a "Cowboy Speeding Ticket." The rider must lasso the calf from horseback by throwing a loop of the lariat around the calf's neck. Once the rope is around the calf's neck, the roper signals the horse to stop quickly while he dismounts and runs to the calf. The calf must be stopped by the rope but cannot be thrown to the ground by the rope. If the calf falls, the roper loses seconds because he must allow the calf to get back on its feet. When the roper reaches the calf, he picks it up and flips it onto its side. Once the calf is on the ground, the roper ties three of the calf's legs together with a short rope known as a "piggin' string". A half-hitch knot is used, sometimes referred to colloquially as "two wraps and a hooey" or a "wrap and a slap". The piggin' string is often carried between the roper's teeth until he uses it. The horse is trained to assist the roper by slowly backing away from the calf to maintain a steady tension on the rope. When the tie is complete, the roper throws his hands in the air to signal "time" and stop the clock. The roper then returns to his horse, mounts, and moves the horse forward to relax the tension on the rope. The timer waits for six seconds, during which the calf must stay tied before an official time is recorded. 

Again I will place myself near the far end of the arena and try to catch the horse and rider coming toward me.  I like to time the rope to get a throw in mid air, hopefully catching the calf.

Next was Pole Bending:
Pole bending is timed event that features a horse and one mounted rider, running a weaving or serpentine path around six poles arranged in a line. This event is usually seen in high school rodeos and 4-H events as well as American Quarter Horse Association, local National Barrel Horse Association shows, Paint and Appaloosa sanctioned shows as well as at many gymkhana or O-Mok-See events. 

Setting up the pole bending pattern is crucial to the success of this event. The pole bending pattern is to be run around six poles. Each pole is to be 21 feet (6.4 meters) apart, and the first pole is to be 21 feet (6.4 meters) from the starting line. Poles shall be set on top of the ground, six feet (1.8 meters) in height, with no base more than 14 inches (35 cm) in diameter. These are the measurements implemented and endorsed by the National High School Rodeo Association. 



The purpose of a universal pattern is to be able to track and compare times everywhere poles are run. Good horsemanship is the foundation for success in pole bending and barrel racing. The horse and rider team must work as one in order to excel. Each contestant will begin from a running start, and time shall begin and end as the horse's nose crosses the line. A clearly visible starting line must be provided. An electric timer or at least two watches shall be used, with the time indicated by the electric timer or the average time of the watches used by official timers to be the official time. A horse may start either to the right or to the left of the first pole and then run the remainder of the pattern accordingly. Knocking over a pole shall carry a five-second penalty. Failure to follow the course shall cause disqualification. A contestant may touch a pole with his or her hand in pole bending. Poles shall be shall be set on top of the ground, 6 feet in height, and mounted in bases with a 14 inch diameter. Poles shall be PVC pipe, and bases shall be rubber or plastic. For added safety, PVC caps are recommended. Preferred color for poles is natural white, but red, white, and blue rings shall be allowed. Solid rubber bases are preferred, but hollow plastic bases shall be allowed only if filled completely to emulate a solid base. When riding a horse through the poles, the rider must first look to where they want to go. It is essential that the rider sits in the saddle and uses lower body and legs to navigate their horse through the poles. Forward motion must be maintained in order to keep all of the poles standing. The use of the horse's hindquarters helps the horse zigzag through the poles in a smooth weave.


Sun was gone by this time and the very poor area lights only filled the dust slightly Nikon D700 and Nikon 300mm f2.8 lens, ISO 6400 depending on the light, 1/800 at f2.8. 


Finally time for Bull Riding:
Bull riding refers to rodeo sports that involve a rider getting on a large bull and attempting to stay mounted while the animal attempts to buck off the rider. In the American tradition the rider must stay atop the bucking bull for eight seconds. The rider tightly fastens one hand to the bull with a long braided rope. It is a risky sport and has been called "the most dangerous eight seconds in sports."  


In this photo a very lucky bull rider is caught in his rope and dragged by a very mad bull. The rodeo clown kept him safe while a mob of men jumped in the ring to hold the bull back. One of the fast thinking man was able to cut the rope with his knife to free the rider. Photo was lit by one very old light pole above me.

A rider mounts a bull and grips a flat braided rope. After he secures a good grip on the rope, the rider nods to signal he is ready. The bucking chute (a small enclosure which opens from the side) is opened and the bull storms out into the arena. The rider must attempt to stay on the bull for at least eight seconds, while only touching the bull with his riding hand. His other hand must remain free for the duration of the ride. The bull bucks, rears, kicks, spins, and twists in an effort to throw the rider off. This continues for a number of seconds until the rider bucks off or dismounts after completing his ride. A loud buzzer announces the completion of an eight second ride. Throughout the ride, bullfighters, also popularly known as rodeo clowns, stay near the bull in order to aid the rider if necessary. When the ride ends, either intentionally or not, the bullfighters distract the bull to protect the rider from harm.


By this time light was gone.  I have moved in close with a Nikon D700 body and the Nikon AF-S 50mm f1.8 lens. I shot all of these at ISO 6400, 1/1250 sec at f1.8. A fast prime like this is the only way to get anything under such poor lighting. Note these are right out of the camera with no noise reduction or any editing.



As always I suggest getting rid of the kit lens, even in very bright light. Using either fast primes like the Nikon 300mm f2.8 or the very inexpensive AF-S 50mm f1.8 will set your work apart in all light conditions..

There are hundreds of events like this all over the country every weekend. Look for smaller events like this to build your skill and practice working under poor conditions,  The results will be worth it!

How To Photograph Cowboy Mounted Shooting for Sports Photographers


Cowboy Mounted Shooting is the Fastest Growing Equestrian Sport in the Nation. Mounted contestants compete in this fast action timed event using two .45 caliber single action revolvers each loaded with five rounds of specially prepared blank ammunition. The Cowboy Mounted Shooting Association "C.M.S.A." has a variety of levels of competition for everyone, ranging from novice levels to the seasoned professional.



Mounted Shooters use .45 caliber single action revolvers like those used in the late 1800's. Single action revolvers must be cocked each time before firing by drawing the hammer back. A double action revolver can be fired by simply pulling the trigger, without cocking the hammer. Despite the use of double action revolvers in the Old West, the CMSA limits our competitions to single action revolvers. 
Cartridges fired are called .45 caliber Long Colts. The brass cartridge is loaded with black powder (like that used in the 1800's). This load will break a balloon up to about 15 feet. Live rounds are strictly prohibited at competitions. At each event we have a person to load the rider's guns as he or she enters the arena, and a person to unload the guns after the rider is finished. Riders do not carry loaded guns outside of the arena or when not competing.




It is required that riders dress western. They may either dress in traditional western style or they can dress in the old time style of the late 1800's. Traditional style includes a long sleeve western shirt, 5 pocket blue jeans covered by chinks or chaps, western boots, and a cowboy hat. If they prefer 'rolling back the clock ' to the late 1800's, some try to look as authentic to the period as possible, by wearing shirts without collars, and high-waisted pants with buttons, not zippers, and an old style cowboy hat, for example.


Cowboy Mounted Shooting is held both indoors and outdoors.  I shot this event in May at the Paul Battle Arena in Tunica, Mississippi.  For the most part I approached it in the same way I would rodeo or any other equine event horse show. Even the best areas are very poorly lit.  You must expect them to be much worse than even the dimest high school gym you may shoot in.  
In the past I would have shot this using strobes or in the least multiple flashes. But, given the quality of the Nikon D700 and D3s bodies that is no longer the case.


For this event there was no place to really shoot from the arena floor, so I resorted to shooting from the first few rows of seating circling the venue. Since I was relatively close I shot most of these photos with a Nikon D3S body and a Nikon 70-200mm f2.8 AF-S Lens.  I had the ISO set at 6400 ISO, lens at f2.8 and shutter at 1/800 sec.  All using a custom white balance to cope with the phasing lights as well as I could.



My goal was to not only capture action and emotion, but also muzzle flash and smoke. This is really much harder than it sounds. I really like the photos in which the fire from the gun lit the rider. That is proof of just how dark these arenas are.   I have found over the years the best way is to anticipate when the rider will fire at the balloon and press the shutter then. If you hear the shot, it is already too late to capture the flash. 



I always prefer if at all possible to be at or below the riders level for the most impact.  All of these photos were published in the nations largest regional equine magazine, HORSES MAGAZINE.



Nikon AF-S 50mm f1.8 G Lens Review for Sports Photographers

The first photo taken with my new lens. This is the Indiana State Capital Building taken out the window of my hotel hand held. Nikon AF-S 50mm f1.8 on a Nikon D700 body. 1/60 Sec. f1.8 at ISO 1600.

I was able to finally get my hands on one of the new Nikon AF-S 50mm f1.8G lens this weekend. The inexpensive lens, $219.97 from Roberts Distributing in Indianapolis, Indiana, is what I feel should be the default lens for anyone buying a new Nikon DSLR at any price point.  Forget the ‘kit’ 18-55mm zoom or whatever your camera may come with.  Buy this lens for less money and then buy the camera body alone from most any major retailer.

The biggest question about this new lens is focus speed.  The older version was not very fast, but neither is the Nikon AF-S f1.4 version which sells for twice as much money.  My seat-of-the-pants opinion is that this new version is faster than the older version and is a bit faster than the 50mm f1.4.  But, it is way faster than any kit lens I have tried. I regularly use a 400mm f2.8 Silent Wave lens and no, this lens is nowhere close to as fast as it is. But, this little baby cost less than the lens hood on a big pro lens.

Focus speed is not blazing fast, but it did a great job keeping up with this speeding stock car at the Eldora Speedway in Rossburg, Ohio. This racer was competing in "The Dream" which pays the winner $100,000.




















The Nikon AF-S 50mm f/1.8G is Nikon's latest version of the classic 50mm f/1.8 lens, first introduced in 1978.  It is Nikon's first 50mm f/1.8 autofocus lens that offers instant manual-focus override simply by grabbing the focus ring. It's also the first 50mm f/1.8 that autofocuses on Nikon's cheapest DLSRs like the D3100 and D5100. The previous version did not have a built-in focus motor (the S stands for Silent Wave motor).  This feature not on lets you use it on the new lower end bodies but it noiseless, making it perfect for video on the Nikon D7000 or Nikon D5100 bodies.

Pinconning Michigan's Jeep VanWormer finishes 6th in Saturday night's race. The AF-S 50 performs well in low light but even it would not overcome the terrible light fluctuations on track.  For this shot I added a little fill flash from a Nikon SB-800 to even the shadows and fill inside the car for detail. I panned to blur the background and track. Ninety one cars entered the two day event that paid the winner $100,000.

I have used the D version for years on a Nikon D2H body for indoor basketball and volleyball.  It has always been a favorite and up until now has been a loaner system for our staff photographers.  This upcoming year I am planning to pair this new lens with our new Nikon D7000 body, for what I think will be a perfect indoor pair for many sports, and a great system for available light anywhere! When used on a DX camera, it gives angles of view similar to what a 75mm lens gives when used on an FX or 35mm camera.

A team member takes a photo of the scoreboard. The image quality of this lens is perfect for grabs shots in any light.


This new lens is very light but I feel it is very well build, as any pro lens.  The body is plastic but the lens mount is metal.  Lens includes a pouch and a very nice 58mm hood Nikon HB-47.  We always add a good quality Hoya Skylight filter to all of our lens to act as a lens cap and protect from scratches and dust.

Final verdict:  
I was hoping that it would focus faster, but price, build quality and image quality are better than expected.  This is a great little lens for a great price!